Pokemon Dress Part 2 Video Transcript 2
Multiple bastings explained
All right moving on to step eight. For step eight you need piece four. That is the bodice upper back and you should have made four different markings one here. At the top, at the side here, and then also two at the bottom. We’re just going to be doing a basting. A double basting actually, because we’re going to be gathering this and then we’re doing another one here. Now on the lower half of this, make sure to note that your basting is going to be stopping here at this large dot. Then you’re starting a new basting. Which means you need to break the stitch here, and leave long threads there. So let’s do that.
Do the outside basting and work inwards
Now do the outside ones first because I want to make sure that I don’t forget to break my stitching there. So here we go with the sewing machine, using my long stitch. And just like I have been doing I’m going to go slightly inwards from 5/8’s. All right, here’s my first dot so I will stop there. So that was the first one, and I broke the stitching, and now I’m just going to stitch inwards. At about like 1/4. You can always measure these exactly if you want to. I just don’t. I would rather just keep sewing. Make sure when you start that you have your threads so that you can pull on them later. Here we go, across a whole bunch of Pikachus. Whew, this cotton is making my hands so dry. I’ll have to go grab some lotion and have a lotion break in a minute.
Always break the stitching at the dots
All right, there are my dots, so I’m breaking the stitching. Then I’m going to start next to the dot again, at the new angle. Make sure you have long threads. Okay, and then stop when you get to it about 5/8 here at the edge. Then I’ll do the same thing there, stitching slightly inwards for that one next to that dot. Make sure you have threads. And then stopping at about 5/8’s. Okay, so there’s the bottom of one piece, now we need to do the top. So I’m just going to flip it over and do that other side. Still using that basting stitch, and stopping at about five eighths. Then I’m going to stitch once more, about 1/4 away on the inside here.
I’m saying the inside, in my videos I always call this the inside because that’s going to been encapsulated into the dress once the seam is finished. Just in case that confuses anybody. Because I know if you’re not used to sewing, you might hear “inside” and think more into the actual piece.When I say inside in any of my sewing videos, it means I’m referencing the future seam that’s going to be created. Okay and stopping at about five eighths. All right. Now I’m just going to set that aside, and do the exact same thing to the other piece. So you do that, do the same thing to the other piece, and then join me again.
Step 9 stay stitching the top
Moving right along here. We are now at step 9, and step nine is easy. We’re just going to do some fast stay stitching. So just make sure that you don’t have your basting stitch still on. You’re going to take your midriff back, your piece five, and you’re just stay stitching the top here. So here we go, five-eighths stay stitch. Stitching at the edge and then I’ll just quickly do that for the next piece as well. This is just a stay stitching. It doesn’t matter. If you do it on the right side, or the wrong side of the fabric, just so long as you have a permanent stitch. Then back stitching again at the edge. All right. That was perhaps the easiest step so far.
Step 10 pair your pieces together
Now for the next section. I’m going to step 10. I’m just going to cruise along here. We’re basically going to be attaching those two pieces similarly to the top that we built. So you want to grab your pieces that you just stay stitched. I’m just going to lay mine out the way they have it here in the pattern because it’s easier to see that way. So like so. Then you’re going to take your piece four’s, which are the pieces that you did all of the previous stay stitching on. You’re going to be attaching those to those pieces. So one of these is going to get gathered into this, and then the other one, is going to get gathered into the other side. Okay, so let me move this out of the way.
Always keep your basting thread free and accessible
Now this is why it was important earlier for you to break your stitching because you can see on the shoulder strap, where you have that broken stitching. It’s going to be matching up with your back piece here. Okay. So whenever you go to fit all this in, go ahead and pin your edges together. All right, and then all of that is getting fitted into this seam. I’m just pulling my threads out because I don’t want to be trying to find those later. I also want to try to keep free my other threads for the next piece. Okay, once you’ve got those aligned, pin those down too. Then you’re going to be gathering all of this to fit inside of there.
Begin gathering fabric to fit the smaller piece
So I’m going to flip this over and grab two of my loose threads here. For my top piece here, the longer piece, make sure that you grab the correct threads. Okay, I have the correct threads. I’m actually going to move this pin to this side, so that I can use it to hold down my thread. Then I’ll go ahead and just pull on this slightly, just to kind of get a little bit of a gather going down here. Alright that looks pretty good, and then I’ll just wrap that around the pin to hold it in place. Alright that’s good now, I’m going to go to the other side. Do the same thing, grab my two threads on top, and then just start pulling the fabric to fit into that section. Okay, that’s two gathered, oh, let me pull some of this out. You’ll see when it starts to lay flat. Okay, that looks pretty good. Let me just check again.
Make the gathered side tighter for a nicer seam
I always have a preference of making the gathered side a little bit tighter than the outside. Because I feel like once you start pinning things that somehow all seems to work itself out. Okay, here we go,wrapping that end. That is all set. Now you just need to make your gathers pretty and equal. Just start spreading that out equally little by little. You’ll be able to see pretty easily when you’re doing this, if there’s a section that’s kind of thick or needs to be pulled out. It’s pretty easy to tell. You can see when you’re looking at this, this one’s a little tight. So I’m going to pull that one out a little bit. Then see these places where it’s kind of flat? You want to make those more attractive by putting a little bit more gathers in them. Then just pull gently every now and then to kind of get everything to lay correctly. I have a weird pucker here, so I want to get that out. This is looking better. Now I have another flat space here so you spread that out a little bit. Okay, this I’m happy with, this is pretty good. Just that one little section is tricky in there. Okay, then just start pinning and you’ll remember from the first piece I did, I like to pin my gathers a lot.
Gather both sides so you can stitch all at once
All right, this is pretty much pinned the way that I like. So I would rather stitch these both together at the same time. I’m going to do the same thing now to the other side. So go ahead and do this for yourself, and get everything pinned. Then we’ll stitch both of the pieces together. So pin yours and come back. Both of my pieces are pinned, and I am now ready to move on. Just make sure that you do take off, or reset, I shouldn’t say take off. Make sure you reset your basting stitch. Because you do not want to use a basting stitch on this, you want to use a permanent stitch. So here we go 5/8, and I’m just going to start from that dot. When you’re stitching this, just like we did before, try to stitch just a little bit on the left of the basting stitch. Just so that you won’t have to remove all of that later because that really does suck. It’s not hard it’s just tedious and annoying. You want to try to avoid the tedious annoying sewing things whenever possible. All right, and then as you near the end here, do your back stitch.
Reinforcing the stitch you just did
Okay, and then we also need to stitch 1/4 from that stitch that we just did. Okay, and then you’re also going to trim out the excess. So once you’ve done that, and you’ve flipped everything out to make sure everything looks good, and you don’t have anything wonky, you’ll want to go through and trim all of that excess. Don’t trim anything up here yet, leave that alone. Just trim the excess out from your gathered section. So I’m now going to do that for my other piece, and then I’ll set that aside and we will move on. So do that for both pieces and join me again. Very exciting stuff.
Step 11 attaching the pieces
We are moving on to step 11. At step 11 we can finally attach our pieces. So here’s my front piece and then here’s my back piece. I’m just going to be attaching these at the sides and I’ll let you see what that looks like before I start. So like so. Okay, so we’re just going to be stitching these closed now. I’m going to set that one aside for the moment and just start on this side. As a reminder you do have those, what I’m calling flaps in here. Those should be included in this seam. So go ahead and put your sides together. Match up the top. Match up the bottom. Then I also put one pin in where my notches are, and maybe one more here. All right. Then I’m ready to stitch that. Now depending on how you do your own personal fittings, you may want to baste this, or you can go ahead and permanently stitch this. This pattern is a Butterick pattern, and I went ahead and cut everything out in the size 10. So I also have special plans for this dress. So I’m just going to go ahead and stay stitch this, because the size 10 is going to be fine for my needs.
Begin stitching permanently
Stitching there at the bottom. Okay. So there’s one one roughly put together. Now I’m going to do the other side. Make sure the flap is on the inside. Matching up your pieces. Okay. Here we go, pinning together the top and, then also pinning together at the bottom. I’m a big fan of always doing the top and bottom first, matching your notch. Then just one more down here, just to keep things from moving around on me. Here we go, a permanent stay stitch at five eighths. So stitching a little, back stitching, and then back stitching here at the bottom too.
Press open the seams
Okay, so go to your ironing board now, and I would recommend that you go ahead and press both of these seams open before we put the shoulders together. Okay, so go press these open like so, with your hot iron just so that they look nice whenever your dress is done. For the next part of number 11, we also have our shoulders to put together. So I’m going to cover one of those now, just to show you guys how to do one yourself. So this is the right side of our fabric here. I’ll show you what we have now. You have basically your outlined bodice piece mostly finished. As you can see this is what it looks like. Okay. Little flaps included.
Attaching the shoulders
So now we need to attach our shoulders. So shoulders are going to be going together like this. If you want, you can just put in a fast little pin at your shoulders, just to make sure you’re putting them together the right way. I like to do that sometimes. Okay, so we’ll start on this side. Sewing our shoulders together, there are a few things you’ll want to note here. So go ahead and match up your edges, and then I’m going to put one more pin just here in the middle where the notch is. So that’s pretty good. What you’ll want to watch out for here, whenever you are stitching this.
Do not sew over the basting stitches
You want to make sure that you don’t catch your basting and gathering threads. So these threads that you created earlier, if you sew over them, they’ll be very hard to pull, and that’s if you’re even able to pull them at all. So make sure That your threads do not get caught in the seam. So you should have a clean 5/8 inch here, that doesn’t include your threads. If you basted it a little too far, that’s okay. You can just take your pin and run it through, and pull the thread out. It’s very easy. Then this side looks fine, too. So make sure to keep those out of the way when you are closing this up and try to pull it out of the way in the back as well. So these two. Here’s an example of one thread that I have here. This one could come out just a little bit. I can usually just pull it with my hands, that’s not working today. There we go, okay. So a clean 5/8 inch without anything in the way. And just go ahead and take the time to make sure that you, that you do that correctly. Otherwise, it will be a pain later when you’re trying to gather those stitches.
Permanently stitch after basting
Okay, this is looking pretty good now, so I’m going to go ahead and start my stitch. Make sure when you put it into the machine, that you put it in so that those threads don’t pop back out from where they’re not supposed to be. I’m just going to put mine in flat, and slip it in, and then sew this at a regular 5/8. This is a permanent stitch that you’re doing. And then you can check when you get to the bottom here. Make sure that your threads are still out of the way. All right, I can see looking at this, this one actually needs to come out one more. Okay here we go. Alright so you’re going to do that on both sides. And then after you’ve done that on both sides you’re also going to your ironing board and just press that seam open like this. Ok. So I’m just going to show you that one shoulder, but you’ll obviously need to do that on both of your shoulders.
Step 12 armhole binding
I’m moving on here to number 12. That is using the armhole binding, which is piece six. So piece 6, armhole binding. You’re just going to be stitching your ends together. So you should have two of those. You’re just going to be stitching your right sides together. I’m not going to pin these, I’m just going to run them through really quickly. And these will need to be pressed open also, whenever you are finished stitching them. So press them open too. Ok, so go press everything, and then come back.
